In order to dominate the ready-to-wear racks and revitalise the image of sexy, lingerie is emerging from the drawers. Why and how? Responding is FashionUnited.
Swati Bhat
The bottoms take over
To understand what it's all about, you must first define the context in which the underwear wardrobe is essential. Behind the enthusiasm of established brands and emerging talents for lingerie, “the ideas of independence and liberation of women are omnipresent,” says Patricia Maeda, director of the Womenswear department of the prospecting agency Fashion Snoops. In today's societal landscape, where women's rights to freely dispose of their bodies are suppressed – for example, the reversal of abortion rights in the United States – and where women's bodies are continually scrutinized, reveal and therefore take back possession of the female body becomes an important act of emancipation to move away from the rigidity of patriarchal structures."
Fériel Karoui, trends consultant, confirms: “Today, displaying lingerie is more sensual than sexy. We talk a lot about self-wear; we emancipate ourselves from the famous “male gaze” to look at ourselves full of confidence and self-love!"
Thus, the “new sexy” was born. A concept which, these last seasons, revealed the bodies to the profit of the lingerie. This sensuality, according to Feriel, has nothing to do with the era of porno-chic or even with a frontal approach to seduction. It brings with it new products and new ways of wearing them. Decoded.
No-pants: tights and panties
From left to dr. Miu Miu, Ferragamo FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics
"The no-pants trend seen at 16Arlington, Ferragamo and many others, creates the illusion of a pants-free look with mini dresses and short shorts," notes Patricia. In addition, it draws attention to young contemporary lines." So panties, short shorts and sheer tights or leggings should be incorporated into assortments in the coming seasons, but their promotion should be inclusive, she insists: "[They will need to ensure] that women feel properly represented, supported and accepted through communication channels and marketing campaigns (...) I think it's important for brands and retailers to destigmatize lingerie by encouraging women to dress the way they want." No-pants was taken to its extreme by Italian label Miu Miu during Paris Fashion Week AH23. The focus was on precious panties and legs in thin tights pulled up to the waist. Sexy silhouettes but whose very covering tops - hoody, down jacket or cardigans - balanced the proposal and conferred a certain portability.
Layering: micro-bra, bralette and corset
From left to dr. Dior, Vaquera FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics
"From a product standpoint, bras, bralettes, bustiers and bodysuits are key layering options that fit under blazers and dresses," Patricia explains. Luxury brands Prada and Jacquemus actually offer their bras in the Tops and T-shirts categories of their e-shops and present them as layering items. If the "no-pants" trend seems, for the moment, to be limited to the catwalks, that of the bra or the corset as a top is already on the street. "Fashion is changing mindsets and the bandeau-brasière under a transparent top and a jacket is becoming more and more popular in the streets of the capital, just like the camisole that can be worn with well-cut jeans," says Fériel. We also note this season the return of an openly sexy piece: the micro-bra. This minimalist piece responds to the Y2K trend and reflects the modern idea of lingerie as "an ode to oneself, a body accessory, an object of reward," in Fériel's words.
Lace pieces and transparency games
From left to dr. Esther Manas, Gucci FW23. Credit: Spotlight Launchmetrics
The new sexy is also the fusion of the main materials of lingerie with the ready-to-wear segment. We're thinking here of dresses in the spirit of a babydoll, more or less transparent, seen at Simone Rocha, Anna Sui or Gucci, and of these satin tops with thin straps (16 Arlington, Bottega Veneta, Y/Project) which are easily combined with a denim piece.
While taking the opposite of the classic jogging + hoodie combo, anchored in the habits since the confinements, these silhouettes inspired by lingerie are part of a continuity. They, too, evoke the intimacy of the home and further blur the line between indoor and outdoor dressing. It's an extension of the style that is proposed with pieces that come out of the dressers to be stored at the same level as the t-shirts and tops," notes Fériel. It's a lifestyle vision of outfits, where products are designed less in silos and where experts work together. This is good news when you look at the return of lace and the arts and crafts that will be able to strengthen their presence and perhaps generate vocations."
