California to ban toxic 'forever chemicals' used by apparel companies

Why do clothing garments and textiles need to be made using known toxic chemicals? That question has now been answered by California’s governor, who passed a bill to phase out PFAS, (per and polyfluoroalkyl substances) better known as ‘forever chemicals, that coat many clothing and textile items and are hazardous to the environment.

Swati Bhat

Mitumba Karume, Tanzania

The full ban goes into effect in 2025, leaving just two and a half years to phase out their use. Outfitter Patagonia has said it would ban these substances from 2024, phasing out any dangerous chemicals in its manufacturing.

Toxic-Free Future (TFF) said in a statement: “Now that we know PFAS can harm our health at very low levels of exposure, we can’t continue to use these toxic chemicals to treat our clothing. Companies have shown they aren’t needed, and getting them out of clothing and textiles will help protect every family,” said Erika Schreder, science director at TFF.

A 2021 study led by TFF, the University of Washington, and Indiana University, showed PFAS was present in breastmilk in all its tested samples. The study further revealed certain PFAS, including ones used in textiles, are doubling every four years.

What are ‘forever chemicals’?

Chemical companies sell PFAS application to products such as paper and textiles as stain-resistant, water-repellent, and grease-proofing treatments. Companies do not (yet) have to disclose their presence, but you will find PFAS on anything from yoga pants to outerwear, sneakers and accessories. PFAS have been linked to serious health problems such as cancer, immune system suppression, increased cholesterol levels, pregnancy-induced hypertension, liver damage, reduced fertility, and increased risk of thyroid disease. PFAS are known as “forever” chemicals because they don’t break down in the environment, nor in our bodies.

“The functionality that PFAS provides—a more stain-resistant coat or more breathable yet water-resistant gym shorts—is not necessary and certainly not worth the health risks,” Sujatha Bergen said to Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). “We lived just fine without these chemicals before, and brands could phase them out quickly if they chose to.”

While phasing out these hazardous chemicals is easier said than done, the PFAS group is made up of more than 4,700 man-made chemicals, used across many industries, not just fashion. Packaging, cookware and cosmetics are just some of the categories that widely put PFAS into its products.

While the chemical industry will be lobbying against a widespread ban, the European Environment Agency iterated: "a substance-by-substance risk assessment and management approach is not adequate to efficiently prevent risk to the environment and human health from a single PFAS or mixtures of them".

Article sources: Toxic Free Future, NRDC, EU Observer

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A former Amazon executive thinks Disney will win the metaverse

July 15: If anyone knows how Hollywood should prepare for the metaverse, it’s Matthew Ball. The former Amazon Video executive has become the number one expert on the next version of the internet, thanks to a series of essays on the subject.

Swati Bhat

This month, Ball is publishing his book, “The Metaverse: And How It Will Revolutionize Everything.” The work explains in detail what the metaverse is all about and which shifts in tech, business and culture need to fall into place for it to come into existence.

A few days ago, In conversation with Janko Roettgers (Protocol) Ball about the book, the rapid pace of change and the biggest misconceptions about the metaverse. You can read all about that:

How will the metaverse change Hollywood? In his book, Ball argues that people tend to underestimate the changes new technologies will have on media and entertainment.

• Ball cites the way newspaper publishers approached the early days of the internet as an example. Not too long ago, those publishers assumed that people would want to subscribe to a PDF edition of their daily paper, which they would print out and read front to back.

• At the time, the idea that the internet could make printing presses obsolete was downright revolutionary. A few years later, we’ve all adapted to a 24/7 news cycle, and the daily paper itself seems quaint. Plus, who prints anything anymore?

• Ball argues that the same is true for the notion that we’ll watch linear content in AR or VR.

• Instead of just seeing a movie play out in 360 degrees around us, we’ll want to be part of the movie and play a more active role.

• One way to achieve that is through games, which have long blurred the lines between storytelling and interactivity. But Ball also predicts there will be a wide range of adjacent content experiences, from virtual Tinder dates in the “Star Wars” universe to Peloton rides through your favorite movie sets.

Virtual production will be key to enabling this future, according to Ball. Studios have been embracing real-time production technologies, including game engines and LED walls, to speed up productions while also giving directors more tools to find that perfect shot.

• A side effect of this approach is that studios are increasingly amassing digital assets, which can be repurposed for future projects.

• “Much like we think of a physical backlot today containing the ‘Seinfeld’ set from the ’90s, which can be pulled out at any point, we start to talk about virtual props,” Ball told me.

• These props could be sets, characters or even small 3D-rendered objects, which movie studios could then license to companies like Tinder or Peloton, or use to populate their own metaverse worlds.

• However, with most studios having a poor track record in gaming, Ball believes that licensing this content will be key.

Which studio is best positioned for the metaverse? Ball’s money is on Disney. “We are likely to underestimate their fit into this next-generation internet,” he told me.

• One reason for this is the strength of Disney’s IP. “Star Wars” and the MCU alone could be the backdrop for countless metaverse worlds.

• Disney’s ILM has also been on the forefront of virtual production, which has been used extensively for shows like “The Mandalorian.”

• And Disney isn’t just using third-party tools, but actively driving the development of both in-house tech and industry standards.

• This includes the USD file format, which came out of Pixar and could be key to the future of the 3D internet. “That file format is the HTML of the metaverse,” Ball said.

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In Meta's new store Avatars can be dressed in Balenciaga, Prada and Thom Browne

Meta is launching an Avatar Store on Facebook, Instagram and Messenger. The store will launch to include digital clothes from Balenciaga, Prada and Thom Browne, as was announced by Mark Zuckerberg on Twitter. The Facebook founder and Instagram Fashion Director Eva Chen were pictured as avatars in several looks from each designer.

Swati Bhat

Pic Courtesy: Meta Store

Early in May Mr. Zuckerberg was photographed in Italy in the company of some of Italy’s leading luxury industry figures, presumably to foster new partnership and growth drivers to the metaverse. Meta is betting heavily on future connections in 3D.

Shopping in the Metaverse

Mr. Zuckerberg describes the clothing store as a place to dress users' Meta Avatars, focusing on providing the tools for people to be able to digitally express themselves through fashion, "and getting that right in the Metaverse is important", Zuckerberg iterated.

Prada, Balenciaga, Thom Browne are the first three luxury brands joining the store, which Ms. Chen says will also be a place for emerging designers and creatives, allowing users to freely express their Meta identities. Zuckerberg said soon anybody can create digital collections, all that is needed is a computer and an imagination.

Currently digital clothes are not yet available in Meta’s store, which the social media giant says will launch soon. While there has been no information released on the marketplace in terms of costs and how brands and companies can maximise this new revenue stream, Meta also stated it would offer a selections of free avatar clothes.

Digital fashion for Web3 has seen a slew of streetwear and luxury companies partner with technology providers to create immersive experiences and unique products for the metaverse. Balenciaga introduced Skins for gaming platform Fortnight last year and Gucci’s latest Roblox collab, Gucci Town, allows users to visit a virtual store.

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