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The Communiqué News

Ecopel and DyeCoo have announced the development of a recycled polyester fur that is colored without the use of water, following a three-year partnership inspired by Kering.


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An innovation that does not yet exist on the market and is touted as having the look and feel of sheepskin. DyeCoo's technique uses CO2 instead of water to avoid using water. The process is not new to DyeCoo, but the challenge was using it to make artificial furs for the French company Ecopel.

"Using it for a different product was a real challenge and an exciting experience," Christian Tubito, head of Kering's Materials Innovation Lab, said. "It was also a foresighted move because a water-free and chemical-free treatment facility will soon be operational in Europe to ramp up production." This is only one of several processing advancements used by Kering to cut resource usage in the apparel business," he mentioned.

Following a testing phase, the concept will move into production, utilizing facilities offered by Areto, a Spanish manufacturer in which Ecopel purchased a stake in February and which FashionNetwork.com featured in an article highlighting its substantial industrial equipment. Areto, located between Alicante and Valencia, produces synthetic fur as well as digital fabric printing and weaving.

The conflict over water continues at a time when European textile and apparel firms are battling with rising energy prices. According to the Fashion Revolution NGO, one tonne of cloth requires 200 tonnes of water. Bleu Océane, a French business with similar ambitions to Ecopel and DyeCoo, demonstrated its revolutionary ozone-washing machines to FashionNetwork.com last year. A non-water-intensive alternative to typical washing processes.









Why do clothing garments and textiles need to be made using known toxic chemicals? That question has now been answered by California’s governor, who passed a bill to phase out PFAS, (per and polyfluoroalkyl substances) better known as ‘forever chemicals, that coat many clothing and textile items and are hazardous to the environment.


Swati Bhat

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Mitumba Karume, Tanzania


The full ban goes into effect in 2025, leaving just two and a half years to phase out their use. Outfitter Patagonia has said it would ban these substances from 2024, phasing out any dangerous chemicals in its manufacturing.

Toxic-Free Future (TFF) said in a statement: “Now that we know PFAS can harm our health at very low levels of exposure, we can’t continue to use these toxic chemicals to treat our clothing. Companies have shown they aren’t needed, and getting them out of clothing and textiles will help protect every family,” said Erika Schreder, science director at TFF.

A 2021 study led by TFF, the University of Washington, and Indiana University, showed PFAS was present in breastmilk in all its tested samples. The study further revealed certain PFAS, including ones used in textiles, are doubling every four years.

What are ‘forever chemicals’?

Chemical companies sell PFAS application to products such as paper and textiles as stain-resistant, water-repellent, and grease-proofing treatments. Companies do not (yet) have to disclose their presence, but you will find PFAS on anything from yoga pants to outerwear, sneakers and accessories. PFAS have been linked to serious health problems such as cancer, immune system suppression, increased cholesterol levels, pregnancy-induced hypertension, liver damage, reduced fertility, and increased risk of thyroid disease. PFAS are known as “forever” chemicals because they don’t break down in the environment, nor in our bodies.

“The functionality that PFAS provides—a more stain-resistant coat or more breathable yet water-resistant gym shorts—is not necessary and certainly not worth the health risks,” Sujatha Bergen said to Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC). “We lived just fine without these chemicals before, and brands could phase them out quickly if they chose to.”

While phasing out these hazardous chemicals is easier said than done, the PFAS group is made up of more than 4,700 man-made chemicals, used across many industries, not just fashion. Packaging, cookware and cosmetics are just some of the categories that widely put PFAS into its products.

While the chemical industry will be lobbying against a widespread ban, the European Environment Agency iterated: "a substance-by-substance risk assessment and management approach is not adequate to efficiently prevent risk to the environment and human health from a single PFAS or mixtures of them".


Article sources: Toxic Free Future, NRDC, EU Observer


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